Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
